Retinol & Retinal
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and among the most evidence-supported ingredients in skincare for supporting skin renewal, managing fine lines, and helping with uneven texture and acne. Korean skincare has increasingly embraced retinal (retinaldehyde) in particular, favouring its greater potency at low concentrations — making effective retinoid use accessible without the irritation of high-strength prescription products.
Not safe during pregnancy. Vitamin A derivatives including retinol and retinal should be avoided during pregnancy. If you are pregnant or trying to conceive, consult your healthcare provider.
General Information Only. This page provides educational skincare information and is not medical advice. If you have persistent acne, eczema, rosacea, allergies, skin irritation, pigmentation changes or any medical skin condition, please consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional before changing your skincare routine. Individual results vary. Always patch test new products.
The retinoid conversion pathway
All retinoids in OTC skincare must be converted by enzymes in the skin into retinoic acid, the active form that produces effects at a cellular level. The fewer conversion steps required, the more potent and faster-acting the retinoid:
What retinoids may help with
Skin cell renewal
Retinoids support the skin's natural cell turnover cycle, helping shed old cells more efficiently and revealing newer skin surface below.
Fine lines and texture
Regular use may improve the appearance of fine lines and skin texture over time. Results develop over weeks to months of consistent use.
Acne and congestion
Retinoids help prevent the buildup of dead skin cells in pores — a key step in preventing comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). Often recommended for acne-prone skin.
Uneven tone
By supporting cell turnover and melanin regulation, retinoids may help fade post-acne marks and improve overall skin tone over time.
How to introduce retinoids — starting protocol
- 1.Start at the lowest available concentration
0.025–0.05% retinol, or 0.01–0.025% retinal. More is not better when starting.
- 2.Use at night only
Retinoids break down in UV light and increase photosensitivity. Night use only.
- 3.Begin every 2–3 nights
Allow skin to adjust. Increase frequency gradually over 4–8 weeks as tolerance builds.
- 4.Moisturise over the top
Apply a ceramide-rich moisturiser after the retinoid. Or use the sandwich method: moisturise, retinoid, moisturise.
- 5.Wear SPF every morning without fail
Retinoids increase photosensitivity. Daily broad-spectrum SPF is non-negotiable.
Expected side effects (especially at first)
Initial purging
2–4 weeks of increased breakouts is common as cell turnover accelerates. This is not an allergic reaction — it typically resolves.
Dryness and peeling
The skin's surface exfoliates more rapidly. Gentle cleansing, more moisturiser and reduced frequency can manage this.
Redness and sensitivity
Common in the early weeks. Usually reduces as skin acclimatises.
Increased sun sensitivity
Ongoing. Daily SPF is essential throughout your retinoid routine — not just during the adjustment period.
Do not combine on the same night (until experienced)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) — different pH, use at different times
AHAs / BHAs — double exfoliation risk, high irritation potential
Benzoyl peroxide — may oxidise retinoid, reducing efficacy