Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) brightens uneven skin tone, minimises pore appearance, regulates sebum, and strengthens the skin barrier. It is effective at 2–10% concentrations, works for all skin types, and is safe to layer with most other actives including retinol, hyaluronic acid, and SPF.
This guide covers what niacinamide does, who it is best for, how to use it and the common questions surrounding concentration, the niacin flush myth and ingredient compatibility.
General Information Only. This page provides educational skincare information and is not medical advice. If you have persistent acne, eczema, rosacea, allergies, skin irritation, pigmentation changes or any medical skin condition, please consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional before changing your skincare routine. Individual results vary. Always patch test new products.
What niacinamide is
Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3. It is naturally found in many foods and is also produced by the body, where it plays a role in numerous cellular processes. In skincare, it is synthesised for use in topical formulations. Unlike some actives that require specific pH conditions to be effective, niacinamide is stable across a wide range — making it compatible with most products in a layered routine.
It appears in Korean skincare in every format: toners, essences, serums, moisturisers and even SPF formulations. Concentrations typically range from 2% to 10%, with 5% being the most commonly researched and widely used.
What niacinamide may help with
Brightening & even tone
Niacinamide may help reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone by interfering with the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to skin cells — a well-studied mechanism.
Pore appearance
Regular use of niacinamide at 5% is associated with a reduction in the visible size of pores, likely through improved sebum regulation and skin texture refinement.
Barrier support
Niacinamide has been shown to increase the production of ceramides and other lipids in the skin barrier, supporting moisture retention and reducing sensitivity.
Sebum regulation
Studies suggest niacinamide may reduce sebum production, making it particularly useful for oily and combination skin types.
Redness reduction
At lower concentrations (2–5%), niacinamide is often included in products designed for sensitive or redness-prone skin for its calming properties.
Anti-ageing support
Niacinamide may support the appearance of fine lines and skin texture over time, particularly when combined with other skin-supporting ingredients such as ceramides and peptides.
Who niacinamide is best for
Niacinamide is often described as a universally suitable ingredient because it is well-tolerated across a wide range of skin types. That said, its benefits are most clearly aligned with certain skin profiles:
Oily and combination skin
The sebum-regulating and pore-refining properties make niacinamide particularly valuable in oily skin routines. It provides meaningful benefit without adding greasiness.
Hyperpigmentation and uneven tone
Regular use may visibly reduce post-acne marks and general unevenness over several weeks. It works well alongside vitamin C and AHAs for this purpose.
Sensitive skin (at 2–5%)
Lower concentrations are well-tolerated by reactive skin and can help support a compromised barrier. Above 5%, some sensitive skin types may experience mild irritation.
Barrier-compromised skin
The ceramide-stimulating effect of niacinamide makes it useful for anyone rebuilding a damaged skin barrier alongside ceramide-containing moisturisers.
The niacin flush myth — clarified
Niacinamide is not niacin
The niacin flush — a hot, red, tingly sensation — is caused by niacin (nicotinic acid), a different form of vitamin B3. Niacinamide does not cause a niacin flush under normal circumstances.
At very high concentrations (10%+), some formulations may trigger a mild flush if they contain trace niacin as an impurity. This is product-specific and not an inherent property of niacinamide. Well-formulated, quality products from reputable brands carry very low risk of this effect. If you experience persistent flushing from a niacinamide product, try a lower concentration or a different formulation.
Works well with
Use with care alongside vitamin C
There is a historical concern that niacinamide and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) combined may form niacin, potentially reducing the efficacy of vitamin C. Modern research suggests this effect is minimal at the concentrations used in typical skincare products. However, as a precaution, many people choose to use vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide in the evening, or simply allow one to absorb before applying the other. This is not a hard rule but a practical approach if you prefer to be cautious.
Frequently Asked Questions
Research references
- Levin J, Momin SB. How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010;3(2):22–41.
- Navarrete-Solís J et al. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011.
- Draelos ZD et al. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96–101.