Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins. In skincare, synthetic peptides are designed to interact with skin processes in specific ways, depending on their structure and mechanism. They are used primarily in anti-ageing and skin-firmness-focused formulations and are a significant ingredient category in Korean serums, ampoules and eye creams.
Understanding what peptides can and cannot do is essential for setting realistic expectations. Topical peptides produce modest, gradual results — they are not capable of replicating injectable or clinical outcomes, and they work best as part of a consistent, comprehensive routine.
General Information Only. This page provides educational skincare information and is not medical advice. If you have persistent acne, eczema, rosacea, allergies, skin irritation, pigmentation changes or any medical skin condition, please consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional before changing your skincare routine. Individual results vary. Always patch test new products.
Types of peptides in skincare
Signal peptides
The most widely studied type for skincare. Signal peptides are designed to communicate with skin cells, encouraging the production of collagen and other structural proteins. Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) is the most well-known example. Results from signal peptides are modest and develop over weeks to months.
Carrier peptides
These peptides act as vehicles to deliver specific minerals or trace elements to the skin. Copper peptide (GHK-Cu) is the most common example — it delivers copper ions that may support skin repair processes and collagen synthesis.
Enzyme inhibitor peptides
These peptides work by inhibiting enzymes that break down collagen and other skin proteins, theoretically slowing the rate of skin ageing. Soy protein peptides are a widely used example.
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides
The most well-known is Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3). These peptides are designed to interfere with the muscle contraction signals that contribute to expression lines. The topical effects are mild — they are sometimes described as 'Botox-like' but this is a significant overstatement; topical application cannot replicate injectable results.
What to realistically expect from topical peptides
Topical peptides can provide modest, gradual improvements in the appearance of skin firmness and fine lines over consistent use (typically 8–12+ weeks). They do not inject into muscles, do not replicate medical treatments and cannot reverse deep structural changes to skin.
Claims of "like Botox in a bottle" or "clinical results from a cream" are marketing language, not science. Peptides are valuable ingredients with real but subtle effects — and they are best appreciated as a complementary, long-term skin maintenance strategy.
Best for
Peptides are most suited to mature skin seeking supportive anti-ageing maintenance, and to anyone interested in preventive skin health. They are well-tolerated, gentle and layer comfortably with most other ingredients. Works particularly well with: ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C. Best used in leave-on formats (serums, eye creams, moisturisers) to allow adequate contact time with skin.