What are the active compounds in centella asiatica?

The main bioactive compounds are asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid — collectively sometimes referred to as 'centellosides'. These compounds are associated with anti-inflammatory activity, collagen support and barrier function in cosmetic research. Different products use different extracts — some list centella asiatica extract, others use isolated compounds such as madecassoside specifically.

Is CICA the same as centella asiatica?

CICA is an informal marketing name for centella asiatica derived from its botanical associations with cicatrisation (wound healing) and from the INCI name 'Centella asiatica'. In skincare, CICA products typically contain centella extract, isolated centellosides, or a combination. The terms are used interchangeably in K-beauty marketing, though formulations vary considerably between products.

Who benefits most from centella asiatica in skincare?

Centella is beneficial for a wide range of skin types but is particularly well-suited to: sensitive and reactive skin that needs calming and barrier support; acne-prone skin that experiences post-inflammatory redness; skin that is recovering from barrier disruption caused by over-exfoliation or overuse of actives; and anyone whose skin is frequently red, irritated or uncomfortable. It is also used in post-treatment skincare (after procedures like laser or microneedling) for its soothing properties.

Can centella asiatica be used every day?

Yes — centella asiatica is generally well-tolerated for daily use by most skin types. It is one of the more gentle and widely-suitable active ingredients in Korean skincare. Allergic reactions are possible but uncommon. If you have known plant allergies, particularly to the Apiaceae/Umbelliferae family (which includes carrot and celery), patch test before use.

Ingredient Deep Dive

Centella Asiatica Explained

Q: What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a plant used for centuries in traditional Asian medicine, including in Korean and Ayurvedic traditions. In skincare, it is valued for its calming, anti-inflammatory and barrier-supportive properties. It is particularly associated with Korean beauty (hence the nickname 'CICA' from the Latin Cicatrix, referring to wound healing), and is used in products ranging from toners and essences to serums and moisturisers.

Centella asiatica — also known as CICA, tiger grass, or gotu kola — has become one of the most widely used ingredients in Korean skincare. Its reputation is built on calming, anti-inflammatory and barrier-supportive properties that make it valuable for a remarkably wide range of skin types and concerns.

This guide explains what centella asiatica is, what its active compounds do, which skin types benefit most, and how to incorporate it into a routine.

General Information Only. This page provides educational skincare information and is not medical advice. If you have persistent acne, eczema, rosacea, allergies, skin irritation, pigmentation changes or any medical skin condition, please consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional before changing your skincare routine. Individual results vary. Always patch test new products.

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a small herbaceous plant native to tropical and subtropical Asia, widely found across Korea, China, India and Southeast Asia. It has a long history of use in traditional medicine across multiple cultures — in Ayurveda, traditional Korean medicine (hanbang), and traditional Chinese medicine.

In skincare, it appears under several names on ingredient lists: Centella asiatica (extract), Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic acid, or as whole centella leaf water or juice. Different forms and concentrations offer slightly different benefits.

The active compounds — centellosides

Asiaticoside

A saponin compound associated with barrier support and anti-inflammatory activity in cosmetic research.

Madecassoside

Considered by many formulators to be the most potent centelloside for anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Asiatic acid

Associated with potential support for collagen production in cosmetic research; anti-inflammatory activity.

Madecassic acid

Anti-inflammatory properties; contributes to the overall calming profile of centella extract.

Products vary in which form of centella they use. A whole centella extract contains all centellosides together; products like SKIN1004 concentrate on raw centella juice at very high concentrations, while others use isolated madecassoside for more controlled dosing. All approaches are used in reputable K-beauty products.

What centella may help with

Redness and skin reactivity

Centella's anti-inflammatory activity may help calm reactive, flushed or easily irritated skin.

Barrier support

Centella may contribute to skin barrier function and comfort, making it a useful ingredient in barrier-repair products.

Post-inflammation recovery

May support skin recovery after breakouts or barrier disruption.

Dry or dehydrated skin

Centella products typically have hydrating co-ingredients and the extract itself contributes to skin comfort.

Important context: Most evidence for centella asiatica in skincare comes from in vitro studies and traditional use. Robust independent clinical trials on topical cosmetic centella products are limited. Claims about centella in cosmetic products should use appropriately cautious language — it "may help", "many people find it calming", rather than implying guaranteed therapeutic outcomes.

Which skin types benefit most

Sensitive skin

Centella is one of the most widely-recommended ingredients for reactive skin. Very well tolerated.

Acne-prone skin

Calms post-breakout redness. Non-comedogenic and appropriate for breakout-prone skin.

Barrier-compromised skin

Helps support barrier repair alongside ceramides and fatty acids.

Mature skin

Research suggests centella may support collagen formation in cosmetic contexts.

Normal skin

Centella works well as a general calming and hydrating ingredient in any routine.

Oily skin

Lightweight centella toners and essences are appropriate for oily skin — not heavy or occlusive.

How to use centella in a routine

Centella products can be used at almost any stage of a routine depending on product texture:

Centella toner / skin

After cleansing — first hydration step. Watery centella toners applied to damp skin.

Centella essence

After toner — a slightly more concentrated hydration layer with higher centella concentration.

Centella ampoule / serum

After essence — targeted treatment layer with concentrated centelloside content.

CICA cream / moisturiser

Final step before SPF — a barrier-supportive moisturiser with centella as a key ingredient.

Centella pairs well with

Ceramides

Barrier-repair pairing — ceramides rebuild the barrier structure, centella supports calming.

Niacinamide (2-5%)

Calming and brightening — both anti-inflammatory, gentle enough to layer.

Hyaluronic acid

Hydration pairing — centella + HA in a serum or essence provides both calming and moisture.

Heartleaf

Double anti-inflammatory — both centella and heartleaf are frequently combined in K-beauty calming products.

Panthenol

Healing and soothing pairing — frequently combined in barrier-repair formulas.

Beta-glucan

Double calming humectant pairing — both deeply soothing and hydrating.